RESTAURANTS; Americana By FRAN SCHUMER. NY Times. Published: March 22, 1998  Sign In to E-Mail 

MAPLEWOOD— SOMETHING great is about to happen at American Fare, a serious but informal restaurant that opened last May. You can tell after sampling the appetizers, which are almost as good as they sound -- and they sound wonderful. Listen to a few from a recent menu: a bitter-greens bisque brightened with Madeira and edible nasturtium blossoms; buttery paillards of salmon dripping cream and Dijon mustard, and a risotto with roasted pumpkin and acorn squash that is slightly overcooked but delicious. my companion said after finishing the last soupy spoonful.

Many people do return to American Fare, and for obvious reasons. The small kitchen supplies contemporary American dishes in a setting that is low-key yet festive. If they have a baby-sitter and a bottle of wine (American Fare does not have a liquor license), food-conscious residents of Maplewood are assured of a satisfying evening. The owners, Stephen Van Note and Timothy Fornero, have picked a more accommodating town (and theirs is just one of many restaurants that have opened here recently). Maplewood has not only what real-estate agents call charm but also the kind of customers whom young chefs streaming out of culinary institutes dream about: people whose major extracurricular activity is food, whatever their budget.

Give them great risotto or tuna, and they will come. Tucked among shops that sell cheese, wine and the lamp in last weeks Pottery Barn catalogue, American Fare looks like a thrift shop from the outside, thanks to the coat rack in the front window. Still, the room is warm. Real jazz, as opposed to Kenny G., is piped in over the sound system, and candles glow. By day, acoustical tiles and Home Depot- style fixtures dress down the atmosphere, but by night, the air hums. We all seem so happy to be here.

The local Italian restaurant near my house gets its bread from Dominick’s in Hoboken, so it’s hard to be impressed with the ordinary variety in this basket. Still, you don’t complain because the servers are first-rate and the menu is a compendium of currently best-selling foods: oyster mushrooms, goat cheese with endive and the baby field greens that have become as ubiquitous as café latte.

Even more impressive is the range available. You can eat meat loaf; you can eat frogs legs, and at reasonable prices. (An ounce of American paddlefish caviar, for example, is $22.) Start with the best of the appetizers, sautéed oyster mushrooms served over mashed potatoes. The accompanying port wine demi-glace and the satiny, wine-soaked mushrooms lend a Continental air to the potatoes, but the appeal of the dish is undeniably American. After countless forkfuls, one of my companions said, This is like scraping the roasting pan on Thanksgiving.;

The homemade pheasant sausage, which is equally lush, is distinguished by three interesting sauces: a lively compote of lingonberries, a sorrel puree that is strong but not nasty, and a cheese-and-beer sauce as hale as its principle ingredients. Baby field greens, here and everywhere, don’t have much flavor by the time they show up in restaurant salads. This version, sprinkled with pea shoots, is only mildly aided by its dressing of walnut oil and balsamic vinegar. The bitter-greens bisque, on the other hand, is the essence of salad, its bite and pungency brightened by sweet Madeira. The steamed mussels are hard to disengage from their shells, but the sauce accompanying them, spiked with wine and Dijon mustard and brightened by an anise-flavor liqueur, has charisma and not too much oil. Main courses sound equally appealing and the list is broad; the simple ones, however, are the most successful. A sautéed tuna served over cranberry couscous as a special was moist and rare, but not raw. The rack of lamb, another special, was rosy, with a beautiful Dijon mustard coating. The person who ordered it frequently visits his wife’s stepfather’s sheep farm in Sussex, England, and even he praised the lamb as unusually tender (although he insists that no lamb raised in America is ever as rich and flavorful as lamb abroad). Barbara Figeroa’s sea scallops, a light supper of stir-fried vegetables and rice noodles, is marred by rubbery scallops; the cod is dull in spite of surrounding side dishes like potato gratin and horseradish chips beneath a mustard sauce. The maple- and chili-glazed Long Island duck, on the other hand, is a perfect combination of crisp skin and moist meat. Another popular entree the single potato-stuffed raviolo, is slightly hard to handle --so slippery -- but it is flavorful.

The problem with the raviolo and many other entrees is the odd choice of accessory, in this case, crab cakes, one more mushy frill the dish doesn;;t need. A restaurant that prides itself on its Americana should produce a first-rate pumpkin pie, and American Fare does -- with homemade cinnamon whipped cream. The tart Tatin has mushy apples; the miniature chocolate souffle needs air and a stronger, richer chocolate. As for that other adopted American passion, ;I alone will defend the creme brulee, a customer told me in an E-mail message after visiting the restaurant. It wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, but I must admit that the worst one I ever had, I loved.

American Fare 175 Maplewood Avenue, Maplewood (973) 763-4005

VERY GOOD ATMOSPHERE Boomer town. SERVICE Real people. RECOMMENDED DISHES Oyster mushrooms served over mashed potatoes with a port wine demi-glace; bitter-greens soup; pheasant sausage; rack of lamb; maple- and chili- glazed Long Island duck; sautéed tuna with cranberry couscous; ; pumpkin pie.

PRICE RANGE Lunch: appetizers, $2 to $6; entrees, $5.95 to $11.95; desserts, $4.50. Dinner: appetizers, $4.50 to $9; entrees, $13 to $18; desserts, $4.75. HOURS Lunch: Wednesdays through Saturdays, noon to 3 P.M. Dinner: Sundays, Tuesdays through Thursdays, 5 to 10 P.M.; Fridays and Saturdays to 11 P.M. RESERVATIONS Recommended. CREDIT CARDS Cash only. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Dining area, but not restroom.

THE RATINGS Extraordinary, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Poor to Satisfactory. PAST REVIEWS Hundreds of Times restaurant reviews are available on line from @times, an arts and entertainment guide on America Online. Software and information: 1-800-548-5201. Photo (Mary DiBiase Blaich for The New

ZAGAT Survey New Jersey Restaurants 1999 Edition

“American Fare” ‘A restaurant listed without ratings is either an important newcomer or a popular write in. AMERICAN FARE (Maplewood) ††† M 175 Maplewood Ave. (Between Baker St. & Hyland Pl.), 973-763-4005 Make a rezie at this on-the-rise, mid-priced, New American in the middle of Maplewood’s shopping district; try Chef Tim Fornero’s goat Cheese strudel with balsamic Chipotle sauce or opt for grilled porterhouse of pork; N.B. chocolate soufflé makes for a fantastic finish.

The Star-Ledger Laurie Sammeth for The Star-Ledger June 13, 1997

Acre for acre, picturesque Maplewood village has proved to be restaurant soil as fertile as any in the state. The month-old American Fare is only its most spectacular new bloom.

Recently, as has been all too common in New Jersey, four of Maplewood’s more ambitious restaurants have folded their final napkins. Uncommonly, however, each has made way for an equal or superior successor. The urbane American Fare was formerly the homely i.e. cafe, which served well- turned food at bargain prices. The tariff is higher at American Fare, but the quality rating has shot to the top of the meter. This is the Yankee equivalent of one of France’s wonderful rustic bistros.

Even the view is suggestive of a cozy European town. The kitchen is ambidextrous. The cheerfully antiquarian lunch menu (prix fixe $5.95-$7.95) differs radically from the worldly, hypersophisticated variations on classical American dishes purveyed at dinner. Head chef Tim Fornero’s combinations are inventive, even daring. The clash and counterpoint of ingredients create a stimulating effect. His cooking has the freewheeling confidence of fine cool jazz. Consider an entree of sauteed Catskill trout with apple leek compote and mushroom orzo ($16), or pulled osso bucco tart salad with shiitake, pearl onion demi- glace and chipotle mayonnaise ($16). Or this all-over-the-map appetizer: cilantro gravlax, petit salmon timbale, fried capers and warm potato triangles ($9). One of his signature dishes is a mysteriouly weightless potato ravioli ($16.50) sparked with a lively leek “frizzle” and tomato thyme butter sauce and anchored by intricately textured crab cake “pyramids.” It’s a terrific summer treat.

Fornero is bucking the current in restaurants toward conservative cuisine. “I take an aggressive approach,” he says unapologetically. “I aim for different tastes, different textures. If I’ve seen it before, I won’t do it.” The Springfield-born Fornero, who appren- ticed with Wolfgang Puck and other masters during a cross-country career, acknowledges that New Jersey diners “aren’t willing to take chances at first, so I have to get them to trust me.” Fornero and Millburn-raised partner Stephen Van Note, sous-chef and manager, scoured the country for an ideal restaurant site before returning to home ground. Everything is hand-created but the bread, and they’re working on that. Fornero can’t stop adding specials. He’s planning separate prix fixe menus on ethnic and regional themes.

On a recent drop-in, an elegant special starter brought thinly sliced and delectably juicy roast leg of lamb ($9.50) served au jus with a colorful dish of gratineed zucchini, eggplant and tomato. The kitchen won’t duplicate itself, let alone anyone else. The same vegetables, now roasted and curried, tasted altogether different in a luxuri- ous tagine (less stew-like than its Moroccan inspi- ration) with plump Jerusalem couscous. Subtly infused with essence of orange ($6; $12 entree) and wreathed with sprouts, it was a rainbow of colors and flavors. Creamy, robust duck liver mousse ($4.50) in a hazelnut crust, served with toast points and homemade chips, was enlivened by a vivid Dijon sauce. One memorable special entree was sliced Cornish game hen ($17.50), as moist and full- flavored as any I’ve ever been served, sauteed in an orange demi-glace and ringed with stalks of asparagus. Fine in itself, the poultry was brilliantly bolstered by a “hash” of moist chopped sirloin and fried, herbed potatoes. Ravishing Long Island duck breast ($15), lightly glazed with maple chili in a stirring duck Daring chef `goes for it,’ and exquisite food results confit sauce and plumped out with mashed sweet pota- toes and wild rice, made a multi-layered delight.

By the way, this is diner-friendly cooking. You don’t need to feel that you’re facing a chal- lenge or angling for a degree in food appreciation to savor these dishes. The same goes for the home- made desserts ($4.50), particularly a flawless choco- late souffle served with silky vanilla and chocolate sauces. Maximizing every inch of its limited space, American Fare somehow turns austerity into luxury. The owners have no intention of retreating from their high goals. “I’m a hard-core cook,” says Fornero with a knowing laugh. “I want to do everything I’m capable of doing. I want to go for it. And if the restaurant isn’t working a year from now, I’ll turn it into a deli.” American Fare 175 Maplewood Ave., Maplewood (201) 763-4005. Hours: Wednesday- Thursday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.- 11 p.m. No liquor license. No credit cards. Smok- ing not permitted. Limited facilities for handicapped. Reservations essential on weekends. *** 1/2

The Star-Ledger CODY KENDALL FOR THE STAR-LEDGER October 8, 2000 Formerly the French Hill Inn 344 French Hill Rd., Wayne. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday 4-10 p.m. Sunday (973) 696-9477 **1/2

First, about the name: Owners Stephen Van Note and Tim Fornero wanted to evoke the best- known of several establishments that have occupied the building at the corner of French Hill and Alps roads in Wayne in recent years. “We decided to capture the name recognition of the French Hill Inn,” said Van Note.

Although its subtitle is “An American Tavern,” many of the offerings are a lot fancier than what generally goes with that label. At what other tavern would you find a foie gras terrine ($13.95) or roast rack of lamb with a Dijon crust ($20)? On the other side of the coin, comfort food is well-represented by the likes of a meatloaf sandwich with chili sauce and cheese ($6.50) or gravy- and cheese-laden “disco fries” ($4.50). Oh my, the calories, but if you have a craving, they’re worth it.

Formerly the French Hill Inn reminds me of a cross between a tavern and a diner, with its booths and down-to- earth servers. The price range is moderate, so you can take the family and not go broke. If the kids aren’t in the mood for foie gras or the chicken Napoleon, there are six kinds of burg-ers ranging from $5-$7.95. The elements of fine dining are what sets this 90-seat restaurant apart from the masses of places with reasonably priced food and TVs at the bar. You can set the scene by picking one of many well-selected wines. This is no snob wine list. The highest- priced bottle is $44, and most are available for $30 or less. Go as low as $18 for the Vigneti del Sole Pinot Grigio. There are plenty of choices by the glass as well, many of which run $5, and numerous beers. Then try the smoothly spreadable terrine, which is a lot of rich eating with caramelized onion and dried apricots on the side. If you’re looking for something a little more down home, the Cajun calamari ($7.50) won’t clear your sinuses, but it has enough assertiveness to make a statement. A salad trio ($8.50) of field greens, tomato corn salsa that was short on corn and three fried oysters seemed a marriage of disparate elements. It worked out, though, because everyone at the table tried something different from the plate. But the selections did not complement each other. A fun main course is the beef pot pie with tender short ribs ($12) and wild mushrooms that elevate this old standard and give it class. For something lighter, try the sauted filet of trout ($15), which benefits from a light white wine sauce. It’s served over wild rice and one of my favorites, grilled radicchio, which I see all too seldom. The grilling makes the radicchio more pliable and diffuses some of its bitterness. Specials are printed out and listed with prices, which is the only way to do it if the patrons’ interests are being served. It’s so much easier not to have to remember a long list of items, or keep stop- ping the waiter as he recites them in order to find out what everything costs. That chicken Napoleon ($15.50) special over mashed potatoes had a lively layering of roast tomato, onion confit and mozzarella. The crimini mushroom sauce was the perfect, smooth finishing touch to unite so many ingredients. Wayne tavern gives old name a fresh new twist Another special, cod ($15) had a good variety of little touches that dressed up the fish. Sautéed escarole, a pert little risotto croquette, and a savory artichoke red onion lime sauce gave this a lot of flash. Desserts ($4.50) included a nicely turned out chocolate soufflé that benefited from being served with creme Anglaise. A warm apple French tart had flair. So did the flourless chocolate cake, as satisfying as a piece of candy. Those with plainer tastes can go for the cheesecake or the creme brulee/

Formerly the French Hill Inn has come up with an approach to providing fine dining without the overhead that normally entails. It also offers a way for people of different culinary inclinations to eat at the same place and pursue their own food choices.